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HOW TO REMOVE AND FIT A NEW SUMP PUMP
TOOLS NEEDED TO FIT YOUR SUMP PUMP
- Pipe wrenches
- Tape rule
- Spirit level
- Pipe saw
Other Materials that might be needed
- Check Valves
REMOVAL OF THE OLD SUMP PUMP
If you need to firstly remove the old sump pump, then there are several steps you will need to take to safely remove the old sump pump prior to your installation of the new pump. The FIRST thing you need to do is to safely isolate the electricity supply. Always physically unplug the sump pump if possible. Ensure all supplies are locked off and stay off during the removal and installation.
Sump Pump removal
To remove the sump pump you will need to disconnect the piping and flexible connectors that are attached to your old sump pump. This piping and check valve may be reused if suitable for the new sump pump. *TIP* Leave the check valve connected to the pipe above the valve as this will still be retaining the water that is within the pumping line. Now you have the pumping line removed you can now remove and coverings over the sump and thread the cable through any holes to free the pump. Reach into the sump and lift the pump by the body of the pump, or lifting handle. Remove the pump from the pit. Next you will need to remove the bottom portion of the pipe. This will still be attached to the sump pump. Unscrew this in a counter clockwise direction to it is disconnected.
Your old sump pump should now be removed. And the sump should be clear for the installation of your new sump pump.
INSTALLATION OF YOUR NEW SUMP PUMP.
Now we have the sump clear and ready for your new sump pump, you will need to decide of you are able to re-use the old piping or if need to fit new piping to your pump.
In this example we are going to fit new piping to our sump pump. With your tape rule you will need to measure from the very bottom of your sump up to the bottom of the check valve. Allow 2-3 inches more onto your measurement for good measure. Take your measurement and cut your new length of pipe to this length. Glue or thread your new threaded fittings onto your pipe prior to attaching this to the sump pump and allow to set/cure.
You will also need to drill a weep hole into the pipe. This is to prevent the pump from becoming air bound when using a check valve in your system. Look to drill the hole just above the threaded connector at the sump pump end.
OK – Pipe is ready
Now your pipe is prepared and drilled you need to attach it to your sump pump. Take your time and ensure you correctly align the threaded portion into the pump and screw this in a clockwise direction. We DO NOT want to cross thread this connection.
Secure the pump by standing on it or have somebody holding the pump as you ensure you fully tighten the pipe into the thread using a set or wrenches to grip the pipe. Once you are satisfied you have correctly tightened the pipe you need to insert the new sump pump into the pit by the carrying handle on the pump. *IMPORTANT* Do not use the cord to lower the pump.
The pipe is Too Long
Now we have inserted the sump pump into the pit we have to connect the pump to the rest of the pumping line and check valve. Align the pipe to the underside of the check valve and mark it for cutting just below the bottom of the check valve. Now properly mark the pipe and take to vice/ workbench and cut the top off the pipe. Clear all burrs from the cut end of the pipe using a file. Take your sump pump and piping and insert into the sump pump. Replace and sump covering and thread any cord through any required holes. Refit the covering to final position.
Ensure the float switch is free and able to operate fully within your pit. This is essential to the operation of the sump pump and therefore the pump needs to be positioned in such a way that the float switch has full operating range.
Now we are ready to re connect the new sump pump to the check valve, we will slide the rubber coupling over the pipe in preparation of making the final connections. Ensure the coupling is fully mated to both the check valve and the piping, and then tighten using your screwdriver.
Reapply the mains power
Once you are ready you will need to plug your sump pump back into the electricity supply. Switch the mains onto your sump pump.
Once you are ready you should fully test the pumping line for leaks and pay close attention to the joints at the check valve. Tighten if required. If you are satisfied that you have no leaks then look to ensure your float switch will operate properly. To do this it may need a hose to fill the sump if empty. Fill the sump and let the new sump pump drain the pit of water several times as this will ensure the sump pump will operate when the sump fills and switch off when it has pumped down to a low level.
VIDEO HELP WITH THE FITTING OF YOUR SUBMERSIBLE PUMP
Below is a video outlining the removal and installation of a sump pump. This video is broken down into very simple steps and will guide you through the removal and installation of your sump pump. We found it to be a great guide and therefore have added it here for your assistance if you need further help with your sump pump installation.
We also have tips on the maintenance procedures for your submersible pumps. This will prolong the life of your sump pump, so it will be there for you in years to come.
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Top necessary basement waterproofing products
It is often believed that by purchasing houses with reinforced concrete, one can enjoy relative immunity from the common problem of seepage, leakage and basement flooding. Soon however, they find that they have to obtain the services of the best sump pumps to remove water from below and inside the basement. However, no matter how good the sump pump is, it cannot prevent the relentless attack of the water and its dissolved chemicals on the exterior surface of the product, leading to the eventual weakening of the structural foundations of the house. Hence, to allow the sump pump to be more effective and to ensure that the foundations of the house are kept in good shape, one needs to have a good knowledge of the top necessary basement waterproofing products that can be applied to one’s particular situation.
Cementitious Waterproofing Coatings
Waterproofing coatings come in several forms, but given that concrete bonds best with cement (and we’re assuming that one has a brick and concrete basement), cementitious waterproofing coatings are considered most durable. Using a base of Portland cement and a range of soluble polymers and asphalt variants, these coatings are applied directly onto the negative or interior side and/or the positive or exterior side of the basement. Generally, if one follows our tips and blog for sump pumps, one can save money by applying the coat to only the exterior side as the pump will handle possible internal water problems well.
Typically, one would need a cement/concrete repair primer like Arcyl 60 to prepare the surface for application. Once this is done, a single coat is applied and allowed to dry before the second coat of cementitious coating is added. Once dry, these coatings tend to be able to ensure that water does not enter the concrete and even if it does, the amount of water is minimal. Further, many modern coatings tend to come with NSF 61 potable water certification, thus allowing the material to be applied on or near water pipes.
Sealants and Caulkings
One of the most economical choices among top necessary basement waterproofing products, the sealants and caulkings are polyurethane, polyether or adhesive products that are typically applied only to the joints and cracks in the concrete. Cracks and joints, and for that matter any voids, tend to accept water much faster, and in times of heavy rain can become conduits for rapid movement of water into the basement.
The sealants and caulkings generally come in the form of a tube. The crack/joint along which the material is applied is first dried and then a primer is applied. The sealant/caulking is then applied in a straight line for short distances before letting the sealant dry out. Water and any other liquids should be kept away from the sealant for at least 24-48 hours to allow the material to dry.
Note that the type of sealant to be chosen would depend upon:
- Whether it would be applied to the interior or exterior surface of the basement.
- Would it seal expansion joints in concrete or ordinary cracks ?
- Are any special conditions applicable eg.proximity to a pool or lake, or extensive use of the sealed surface ?
While sealing/caulking can easily be done without professional help, the above considerations should be analysed by a professional who will also recognize the potential fault lines and expansion joints.
Flashing tape is used for waterproofing surfaces that have a lot of metal pipes, gutters, wooden frames, sills, etc. Applied at the junction of the metal/wood and the concrete or between metal/wood and metal/wood junctions, this tape typically comes with an aluminium facer and a butyl-compound adhesive that bonds well with the metal and wood. Unlike other materials mentioned here, this tape can be applied to moderately wet surfaces as well, though it is always ideal to have a dry area.
EIFS stands for Exterior Insulated Finnish System and involves use of a cement-like substance to coat the outer, or more rarely, the inner surface of the basement. Once applied, it creates a stucco-like layer that is impervious to the impact of water and even better, withstands hydrostatic pressure when the water pools around the basement. In addition to these benefits, EIFS also allows the user to add certain materials to the mix before application so as to obtain EIFS of a certain tint. While some of the common tints can be readily purchased from the market, others can be prepared at home.
Emergency Negative-Side Waterproofing Methods
Despite all precautions, water can sometimes push through at high pressure if walls are weak or porous and quickly create conditions far worse than what we use for sump pump reviews. These can overwhelm sump pumps and cause major flooding in a short time. There are a few solutions to combat such scenarios:
- Waterproofing Resins – One of the top necessary basement waterproofing products for critical situations when water is gushing out of a small hole or abscess in the wall, these resins are applied after a polyurethane foam is used to plug the influx of water. The foam soaks in the resin and together, the resin and foam bonds with the concrete and masonry to create a permanent blockage at that point. Note that applying only the foam is not enough as the water would eventually push the foam out.
- Polyurethane Injection – Different from foam, this injection is similar to the sealings/caulkings mentioned above but tends to act faster. The injection is applied along cracks that develop under high water pressure (or due to other reasons).
- Concave Fillets – Applied at the junction of the floor and the wall, these fillets spread the tension between the floor and wall across a large area instead of focusing it on the 90 degrees junction alone. At the same time, it plugs any existing cracks or gaps. Together, it is ensured that the junction is protected in the long run as well.
While there are plenty of choices as far as the top necessary waterproofing products are concerned, we’d like to add a caveat that we also mentioned when concluding our buying guides for sump pumps – choose according to your needs. Unlike sump pumps, not all of one’s waterproofing needs can be figured out by the user himself/herself since some require expert knowledge and equipment. However, most types of waterproofing can be carried out by amateurs and hence, once the survey is complete, one can get down to the purchase and application of the waterproofing materials without depending on anyone else.
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Sump Pump Noise Problems and Solutions
When you refer to our ultimate sump pump comparison chart, you will notice that the products we’ve listed include many of the quietest pumps available in the market. The reason for this is that sump pumps, being essentially motor pumps running on electricity/water, are often, quite justifiably in case of older pumps, considered a menace to the tranquillity of the house. While choosing the pumps we’ve mentioned therein will surely reduce the noise issues, there are also a number of sump pump noise problems and solutions which require only a little time and patience on your part.
Problem 1: Loud “thud” noise when pump shuts off
The “thud” sound produced at the end of a sump pump running cycle comes not from the pump, but from the check valve associated with the PVC pipes. These valves are in place to ensure that once the pressure of water flowing from the sump falls, there is no back flow of water into the sump. As the water pressure falls and water tries to return to the sump under the influence of gravity, the valve shuts close, producing the “thud” sound.
Solution 1: Install a silent check valve
A silent check valve ensures that the thudding sound is not produced. While a costly option as far as sump pump noise problems and solutions are concerned, this is the only permanent answer. Once you’ve purchased a silent check valve, you can:
- Shut off the check valve and any other valves that may exist above it.
- Remove the existing check valve. Drain any water that may have collected in the vicinity of the valve.
- Cut the pipe or add attachments to make the PVC pipe fit the new silent check valve dimensions.
- Attach the check valve and reconnect the other valves. Turn them all on and test using a bucket of water drained into the sump.
Note: A “quiet check valve” is not a silent check valve. Silent check valves are a separate, somewhat costly category of valves.
Solution 2: Attach valve at 45 degrees
This solution is somewhat cheaper but trickier to implement. To do it:
- Remove the check valve using the above steps.
- Cut the pipes above and below the check valve such that the edges nearest to the valve are diagonal in shape. Hold the valve loosely in between the two diagonal edges to gain a better idea of whether further cutting is needed.
- Tilt the valve at 45 degrees and attach the valve securely. If there are any discrepancies, you should use proper connectors.
Note: The diagonal cuts are permanent and cannot be changed unless the entire pipe setup is modified.
Problem 2: Motor makes a lot of noise when running
A regular candidate among sump pump problems and solutions, especially among older pumps, this problem can be solved most effectively by choosing one of the many quiet sump pumps we mentioned in our sump pump buying guide. If buying a new pump is not possible though, a number of stop-gap solutions are available:
Solution 1: Make sump cover airtight
- Remove your existing sump cover and note the thickness of the plastic. If it is very thick but still noise comes out, there may be perforations in the cover, or it may have become weak over time. If it is thin, it cannot be expected to prevent noise pollution anyhow.
- If the cover is thick and has holes/perforations, cover these with small pieces of foam or cork. Foam is advisable because it is more resistant to water damage.
- If the cover has become intrinsically weak or is too thin, you can reinforce it with a layer of insulating foam, applied on the surface which will face the sump pump.
- Alternatively, you can buy an insulation-inclusive sump pump cover as well.
Solution 2: Rubber grommets
- If the cover is loose or rattles during heavy pumping, measure out its circumference.
- Choose rubber grommets of appropriate size and shape and apply them to the sides of the sump cover.
- Once fitted in this manner, apply the sump cover to the sump and seal it if necessary.
Problem 3: Clanging Sounds when water flows out
Clanging is another common category of sump pump noise problems and solutions, and occur when the pipes are not properly secured against their holders, leading to the pipes banging against the holders and creating noise that reverberates across the walls. To solve this:
Solution 1 – Rubber grommets
- Measure out the gaps between the pipe and the holders.
- Take rubber grommets of appropriate dimensions and fit them into the spaces, such that pipe fits snugly.
Note: These steps can also be carried out at the time of learning how to install a sump pump, though in most cases, some follow up grommet installation needs to be carried out as well.
Solution 2 – Align all pipes at 45 or 90 degrees
- Using a levelling tool figure out the plane of the basement floor.
- Now measure out the angles of the various pipes stemming from the sump pump. They should be at 45 or 90 degrees (or parallel) to the plane.
- Tighten holders and straighten the pipe to ensure that sections which do not conform to these angles are fixed.
While discussing the type of sump pumps – which is best choice, we argued that some types of sump pumps eg. submersible sump pumps, make less noise compared to pedestal sump pumps. While it is extremely convenient and beneficial to purchase a new sump pump, we also recognize that it is not always possible to do so, especially if the product was purchased a few months ago with sub-standard fittings and these have started to weaken and rust. In such circumstances, the above paragraphs should help you find your way through sump pump noise problems and solutions without having to call in professional assistance.
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Prevent Basement Flooding Tips
It is a commonly held belief that if one installs a sump pump using an ultimate sump pump comparison chart, he/she will never again have to worry about basement flooding. Much as we’d like to claim that this is true, it is a proven fact that sump pumps, or for that matter any basement draining equipment, works best with a number of precautions. The reason, put simply, is that sump pumps, and any other equipment that you may use, can only remove water if it is collected in a tube or tub – the sump in this case. However, if you don’t follow prevent basement flooding tips, the walls and flooring become porous and can allow water to seep and then gush in. To avoid such scenarios, we’ve come up with a list of most useful tips:
Position Your Pipes Properly
If you have learned how to use a sump pump, you would probably know the basics of pipe positioning and its importance for draining water. If you are a novice or do not use sump pumps even, you should have drainage pipes that remove at least the water building up above the surface, from the basement.
If you are using a sump pump, you should position the pipes vertically and then horizontally at 90 degrees to each other. This ensures adequate flow of water. Further, the end of the PVC pipe taking the water out should end not within 3 feet of the primary house wall. If either of these conditions is violated, chances are that water will not pass out properly, and whatever water does pass out will be soaked up by the outer wall of the house, leading to recurrent spells of dampness.
Clean The Sump and Sewer Lines
It is well-known that prevent basement flooding tips include clearing the reservoirs and outlets of water – the sump and the sewer, regularly such that the water can pass out quickly. While the simple steps to clean a sump pump would include clearing out a sump, the cleaning of sewer pits and lines is a more complex process, given that a question of hygiene is involved.
Ideally, sewer cleaning should be left to professionals, and even then, should be carried out in the spring season, when chances of rain are minimal. This is because if rain occurs while the sewage lines are open, rising water levels may lead to the sewage mixing with the water, thus contaminating it and causing environmental and hygiene problems for your neighbours and your family.
Cover all Inlets to the Basement
Many basements have ventilation ducts or windows that can allow water to seep in rapidly if the glass on them is not secure enough, or gets broken by the action of debris. To avoid this, one should use window well covers to keep windows that protrude from the ground, but are essentially below the ground level, covered. Coming with acrylic coverings, such covers ensure entry of light while preventing the entry of leaves, dust and water.
If the basement window or windows protrude a large way above the ground, it is ideal to treat them as French doors, covering them with special defences that can be attached and removed at will. When leaving the house for extended periods of time, it is advisable that the covers be fully applied so as to guard against the possibility of rain flooding the basement.
Check For Cracks in the Walls or Foundation
As any good sump pump tips and guides page will tell you, the weakening of the foundations of the house can lead to serious challenges to the stability of the house and the security of your loved ones. In the short run, however, such weaknesses would contribute to the flooding of the basement by allowing water to seep in. As the water seeps in greater quantity, the internal iron structure becomes further weakened, thus linking water seepage and house instability inextricably.
Initially, you should run the check every few months, noting whether there are any fine damp lines running across the length of your walls. If there are, check to see whether the damp has occurred due to local causes or due to structural faults. For small faults, use of building putty or white cement in the cracks should suffice, but to ensure long-term stability, professional help is perhaps the only solution in the long-run (or if the breakage is severe). Once the modifications are complete, apply a coat of water resisting epoxy paint to finish the job.
Install a Generator
Whether you have a sump pump and/or sewer pump installed, or just use electricity to run your basic basement lighting, a generator is a must. In case of pumps, they will provide much needed power to the basement in situations of power failure. In the very worst of situations, where the pumps are for any reason not working or the flooding is too rapid, you can always get hold of a spare pump or large wet vacuum (with long water hose attached) and use it to drain the water quickly.
Contrary to conventional prevent basement flooding tips, the generator can only be located outside, preferably a little away from the wall so it does not suffer in case of dampness of the wall. Modern generators come with heavy metal housings that cannot be penetrated by ordinary rain water. The generator must never be installed inside the basement as this will create a situation where even minor collection of water in the basement would ruin the generator. Alternatively, if the noise is bearable, the generator can also be put in the upper, inhabited sections of the house.
Water damage consistently ranks among the worst types of damage caused to any home or commercial establishment’s basement, with the damage being worst in areas where heavy thundershowers, with wind and rain occurring at high velocities, damage the external protective structures of the home/commercial establishment. While it is impossible for a sump pump, a window well protection, a PVC drain pipe or an outdoor generator to protect the basement against a hurricane or cyclone, it is always possible to ensure, by following the prevent basement flooding tips, that in normal cases of heavy rain, these installments and other precautions can keep the basement dry and inhabitable.
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The DIY Guide to Replacing the Sump Pump without calling in the Plumber
Whether your old warhorse just gave up the ghost or your weak sump pump is sitting five feet below basement-filling water, it is never too late to learn how to replace a sump pump without calling in that cost-prohibitive plumber. Now you may well argue that staring down dark basement holes and handling PVC pipes may not be your cup of tea. We agree that this isn’t the pleasant of tasks, but with a little patience and some wise decisions prior to beginning the replacement procedure, it can become a short and easy procedure that can be managed with only the basic plastic cutting tools and a few cheap plumbing accessories. Still browsing the Yellow Pages ? Bear with us for a while longer as we guide you through a simple sump pump replacement procedure:
Begin By Choosing a Good Pump and Matching Parts
If your existing pump died out after giving years of excellent service, it is best to go for a product of the same company and probably of the same product range as well. If, on the other hand, your sump pump collapsed because it couldn’t handle the water load, you’d have to go in for a beefier unit. While moving from 1/3HP to 1/2HP may be a simple equation, you should also consider:
- Will the sump pump bump against the sides of my sump ?
- Does it have special discharge requirements that would extensive replacement of PVC pipes/connectors ?
- Will the float/impeller interfere with a secondary/primary unit I may have installed in addition to the one I wish to change ?
Once the pump has been chosen, it is time to go in for the parts that you would need. While these tend to vary a little (and you are at liberty to chop and change as you see fit), the basic parts required for a replacement procedure are:
- PVC pipe: Most pipes come with thicknesses of “1-1/2”NPT”. If the rest of the plumbing can remain work with the new unit, you would probably need no more than 2-3 feet of PVC pipes to replace the parts that have to be disposed along with the old unit.
- Check valve: Check valves prevent the backflow of water into the sump once the sump pump stops pumping and the pressure of water in the PVC pipe dies out. You can reuse check valves if you like but if you’re replacing an old sump pump it is best to replace the valve as well.
- Union Connector: This piece helps connect two pieces of PVC pipe easily and would be attached at the point where the old PVC pipe meets the new 2-3 feet of PVC that we shall use with the new unit.
- Screwdrivers, saw and safety equipment such as eye protection and gloves.
- PVC priming material and standard white cement.
Removing the Old Sump Pump
To remove your old sump pump:
- Remove the sump cover and set it aside. Disconnect all power cords including those of any other sump pumps that may be present in the sump.
- Locate an area of the PVC pipe exiting the pump that is convenient for you. This should generally be at a height where other pipes do not hinder manoeuvring of sharp and large tools.
- Using a hacksaw, cut away the PVC pipe at the point you’d decided. While learning how to replace a sump pump be ready to get drenched by the residual water in the pipe.
- Pull out the old sump pump using the handle of the pump (if one is provided) and set it down on a perfectly level surface.
- Use a measuring tool to measure out the length of the PVC pipe.
Preparing and Installing the New Sump Pump
- Use the measurements obtained to decide what length of PVC pipe you would need. Cut out the required length of PVC pipe using a hacksaw. It is wise to be liberal while cutting this pipe because cutting can fix overtly long pipes but a short pipe would require all sorts of connectors to operate properly.
- Make another cut at a point that is just a little higher than the top of the sump when the pipe is placed vertically alongside the pump. Keep the piece of PVC that has been cut aside for now.
- Use a male connector to place the PVC pipe we’ve just cut into the discharge of the sump pump.
- Apply priming material and white cement to ensure that the pipe is firmly stuck. Leave the cement to dry out, preferably in the sun.
- When the cement has dried, place the pump in a bucket full of water and connect the power cord. Notice how the water flows out of the small PVC pipe and falls back in a waterfall like movement. If any obstruction is noted there may be obstacles in the PVC pipe diameter and these need to be removed. A long narrow stick can be used for this purpose.
- Once you are satisfied with the flow, it is time to take the new pump into the sump. Lower the pump gently into the sump till it is sitting on the most level surface possible. Ideally you should not need to shift any additional pumps that may be present in the sump to achieve this position.
- Ensure that the float of the new pump isn’t in the way of any companion pump’s float or is not otherwise obstructed. Further, the sides of the pump should not be in contact with the wall of the sump.
- Attach the valve at the tips of the PVC pipe One of the things you need to know when learning how to replace a sump pump is to keep the arrow indicator of the check valve in the right direction. Otherwise the valve will block the flow of all water and in doing so, would be rapidly destroyed.
- Attach the remaining piece of the original PVC piece to the other end of the valve.
- Use the union connector to attach the other end of the PVC pipe to the original PVC pipes of the basement.
Run a Quick Test of the Assembly
- Pour a 5 gallon bucket of water into the sump. Such a high volume of water would usually flood the sump and cause the pump/s to kick in.
- To check this, connect the power supply of the replacement unit and optionally, the other sump pump (if there is one) and turn power on.
- Watch as water is lifted and taken out of the home without having to let a plumber into the house.
Replacing a Water-Powered backup sump pump
Battery-run units follow pretty much the same procedure as outlined above. For water-powered ones the procedure is similar but not exactly the same. To replace a water powered unit:
- Restrict the water supply of the house or if that is not possible, the section that feeds the basement. This would be the municipal water supply in most areas.
- Disconnect the inlet and outlet connectors of the pump and raise it out of the sump. Most units come with connectors that provide excellent interface between the pump and the water supply system. Reuse these if possible. The valves can also be reused.
- Lower the pump into the sump such that only the switch mechanism is deep inside the pump. In most designs the remaining parts would be outside the sump.
- Connect the inlet and outlet pipes and reconnect the water supply to the basement/house.
- Run the 5 gallon bucket test and keep power of all other pumps disconnected. If the unit is still capable of removing water, you can now be sure that you’ve learned how to replace a sump pump.
- Replace the sump cover.
Barring some extremely specialized designs, the above guide to learning how to replace a sump pump should stand good for all major sump pump variants. That said, the actual time required can vary if, for instance, the sump is very deep and it is not possible to make careful observations about the state of the float when looking down from above. In such situations, multiple test runs are required to figure out if anything is not working.
Nevertheless, it is true that knowing how to replace a sump pump is an important skill that can help you tide over many an emergency when even the costliest of plumbers isn’t available to help you out. In helping yourself by applying your knowledge to the replacement process, you can not only save some money, but also prevent sudden flooding situations. Hence, while we know that no guide is totally perfect, we do hope the above guide will take you one step closer to maintaining a dry basement all year round.
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Wayne CDU790 Submersible Sump Pump Review
The sub-$150 price bracket is the lowest one as far as sump pumps are concerned, but it is also the one in which demand is growing at the most rapid pace. It is therefore not surprising that so many new companies try to push in their pumps at a price point lower than what well established companies do, and customers who are tricked into purchasing these pumps soon realize the folly of their sub-standard purchase.
Wayne Pumps, however, has never been known to cut corners – on the contrary, it has produced such awesome sump pumps as the Wayne 58321-WYN3 Submersible Sump Pump. However, this sump pump belongs to a higher price bracket, and given our focus on the lowest price points possible for a quality sump pump, we instead need to see the Wayne CDU790 Submersible Sump Pump. As with any Wayne product, this sump pump boasts of a range of features and performance metrics that will put higher-priced products to shame. However, to gauge its true value for money potential, we need to analyze all of its features in greater detail.
- Product Dimensions: 9 x 9 x 12 inches
- Product Weight: 16.4 pounds
- Type: Submersible Sump Pump
- Discharge: 1 ½ inches NPT
- Motor: 0.3 HP, 100 volts
- Power: 3450 GPH at 5′ head
- Warranty: 3- year
Build Quality and Design
Wayne invests a lot in creating well-designed sump pumps, and this is evident in the Wayne CDU790 Submersible Cast Iron and Steel Sump Pump. The product comes with a light and compact design that allows the pump to be used in sumps 11” in diameter. A highly noted point about this design is the proximity of the discharge and the float to the motor casing, without however causing either part to suffer reduced functionality. Furthermore, the structure has a small cast iron base with short legs which ensures stability of the product regardless of the flatness of the sump bottom.
Without premium build quality a good design is meaningless, and so we find Wayne providing high quality cast iron housing for the product so as to insure it against the twin dangers of corrosion and impact of large debris. Corrosion resistant paint has been applied over all external parts so as to provide added defense against corrosion. The only exception to this are the float (which is not made of metal) and the stainless steel handle and switch guard. Some users argued that this made them more susceptible to corrosion, but long term users countered them, arguing that despite extensive exposure to water, these parts never did show any sings of corrosion.
Major External Parts (Discharge, Power Cable and Handle)
The discharge is a standard 1-1/2” NPT cast iron component which is capable of passing small spherical solid bodies along with the water, thus ensuring that there is no buildup of these small particles at the bottom of the pump. On the other hand, the 1-1/2” NPT size ensures that there is never any incompatibility issue as far as the PVC piping is concerned. Finally, it is fitted with a top suction strainer which allows the product to filter debris with ease and therefore preclude the possibility of the pump being clogged up due to accumulation of debris.
The power cable on the other hand is of decent length, and when considered along with the fact that it is fully submersible, appears to be one of the better power cables in the industry today. Finally, as we noted above, there is a convenient stainless steel handle at the top of the sump pump, which is shaped in a way that ensures easy compatibility with most hand sizes. However, a few users with very large hands noted that they could not insert all of their fingers into the handle space, and hence had some difficulty in raising and lowering the product.
Motor and Sealing
True to Wayne’s reputation for providing powerful and dependable motors, the product comes with a 1/3HP motor, which is the maximum one can expect in this price range. Coming to the equally crucial question of pumping output, we find the product capable of pumping a marvelous 3450 gallons per hour at 5’ head. Further, as our sump pump reviews have shown, a product which achieves a maximum head of 20’ on a consistent basis is a great value for money proposition. This Wayne product thankfully reaches this mark and maintains it for successfully for the duration of pumping operations, thereby staking claim to a position in the category of good sump pumps.
Longevity is vital part of the value for money calculation, and motor sealing a vital part of the test of longevity. The Wayne CDU 790 passes this test admirably courtesy of the ceramic seal which separates the motor from the housing, and thereby disallows water from going into the vital internal components and ruining them.
Impeller and Switch
The Wayne CDU790 Sump Pump comes with a standard cast iron impeller, which not only ensures adequate support to the top suction strainer mechanism of the discharge, but also protects itself and the base from damage due to collision of heavy debris with the underside of the pump.
The switch utilizes the well-reputed PVC float system that consists of the large and stable float, the steel suspension rod and the shaft which connects to the switch. As the water level rises, the float is dislocated and pressure is applied on the shaft through the float suspension. This triggers the highly sensitive bipolar switch, causing the motor to start. Though the float is extremely durable, the precise arrangement of the system necessitates additional safeguards, which come in the form a large and hardy stainless steel switch guard.
The Wayne CDU790 Submersible Sump Pump comes with a three year warranty on all parts, which makes it one of the best sump pumps in the price bracket in terms of warranty offered.
- Compact structure allows the sump pump to fit in sumps with 11” diameter (or more)
- Cast iron build for longevity and epoxy coating for protection against corrosion
- Top suction strainer mechanism allows for filtering of debris
- Powerful 1/3HP motor with excellent pumping output and maximum head
- Excellent ceramic sealing for protection of internal components from water
- Well designed and highly responsive float-operated switch assembly
- Excellent 3 year warranty on all parts
- Handle could have been bigger
- Some users complained of stainless steel parts lacking epoxy coating
Customers seeking a great pump in a budget segment noted the ease with which the product could remove even high levels of sump water in little time without suffering any problems. They also praised the small structure, which allowed them to use the pump in conditions where costlier and larger pumps had proved inoperable. Finally, users commended Wayne for providing a 3 year warranty whereas other budget sump pumps barely provided a year of warranty. However, a few users did complain of the handle being small and also of the handle and switch guard not being given special defenses against corrosion.
Unlike low-grade companies that promise a lot but fail to deliver, Wayne promises on paper just what it is able to deliver. In case of the Wayne CDU790 Submersible Sump Pump, this promise amounted to a perfect blend of power, compactness and durability, and our review shows that this is exactly the case in real life as well. Granted that the product could have had a better handle and some epoxy coating on its steel components, but these minor shortcomings are more than compensated for by the superior motor power, excellent overall build quality and unsurpassable product warranty from the manufacturer. Combined together, these prove that the product is an unbelievable proposition in terms of features offered for the price demanded. Given its compactness and resultant adaptability, this plethora of features makes this sump pump one of the best budget products available in the market today.
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Wayne CDU980E 58321-WYN3 Submersible Sump Pump Review
Competition in the sump pump industry is fierce, but Wayne has proved time and again that it is a powerful contender for the top position, producing units such as the Wayne ESP25 Battery Back Up. However, while the ESP25 is a backup pump, the product we’re concerned with today is a mainstream sump pump called Wayne CDU980E 58321-WNY3 Sump Pump. As we know, there are major differences between backup and primary sump pumps, and hence, it is necessary to see if the excellent specifications which the specs sheet of this sump pump boasts of really translate into the efficient functioning and product longevity that we have come to expect from a top company like Wayne.
Specifications of the Wayne CDU980E Sump Pump
- Product Dimensions: 8 x 8 x 12 inches
- Product Weight: 22 pounds
- Type: Submersible Sump Pump
- Discharge: 1 ½ inches NPT
- Motor: ¾ HP, 115 volts
- Power: 4600 GPH, 3500 GPH at 10 ft head
- Warranty: 5 years
Build Quality and Design
The Wayne CDU980E 58321-WYN3 Sump Pump is one of the most compatible sump pumps available, thanks to the short but efficient switch design and the fact that the discharge is closer to the main sump pump body than that of the average sump pump. Indeed, this proximity balances the slight rise in width caused by the comparatively thicker motor housing and the equally large float (discussed below).
Complementing the design is the high quality of the materials. The motor housing is made of durable stainless steel, which is capable of handling the pressure of the sump water and the occasional collision with heavy solid objects in the sump water without difficulty. Some users, however, complained that the housing lacks the epoxy paint which is characteristic of some other brands, and is therefore liable to corrode and leak. However, this minority of users also admitted that even after years of use, no actual signs of corrosion or leakage could be found, which testifies to the care taken by Wayne to provide quality products each and every time. However, the product does contain a cast iron impeller and base, which allows the pump to work efficiently even when the impeller has to collide with sharp and/or heavy objects while pumping water.
Major External Parts (discharge, handle and power cord)
The Wayne CDU980E Submersible Cast Iron and Stainless Steel Sump Pump with Vertical Float Switch comes with a 1-1/2” NPT discharge which, as we have seen, is located quite close to the main body of the sump pump. Unlike some low quality sump pumps, Wayne has taken adequate care to ensure a smooth and molded design that does not easily get damaged or blocked.
Though the product is not very heavy, proper handling procedure demands the presence of a handle. Wayne has therefore provided the product with a stainless steel handle at the top, which, however, is slightly small considering the overall size of the sump pump. The power cord is fully submersible and can reach power points at moderate distances. However, it has been criticized for being unable to reach distances achieved by some other similarly priced sump pumps.
Motor and Sealing
The most important part of the sump pump is the motor, and Wayne has provided this product with a 2HP motor that can easily beat the ½ and 1/3HP motors that the competition boasts of, thereby making this product a great value for money proposition. Equally important is the flow rate, however, and as expected, the powerful motor achieves a maximum of 4600 gallons per hour. If this weren’t enough, the product offers an even more stunning 3500 gallons per hour at 10 feet head, which few sump pumps can achieve, regardless of the price bracket.
Finally, the product is designed to utilize the “top suction” mechanism of the motor for efficient removal of the sump water. This design eliminates the air locks and prevents the solid particles collected at the bottom of the sump pit from blocking the vital parts of the pump. Rounding off the excellent motor’s capabilities is the hermetic sealing which separates the motor and vital circuitry from coming into contact with the water outside.
Impeller and Switch Assembly
The impeller is the part of the product that is made of cast iron, but unlike some poorly designed products, the impeller on the Wayne CDU980E Sump Pump does not weigh down the product and thereby reduce efficiency. Indeed, while being light enough for the pump to function efficiently, the impeller’s specially engineered design allows it to move water with greater efficiency as compared to an average sump pump.
Finally, as our reviews of sump pumps indicate, a vital parameter to consider is the switch assembly and switch protection. The Wayne CDU980E 58321-WYN3 Sump Pump offers a sturdy polypropylene float that is light enough to be highly sensitive to the subtle changes in water level. The switch is automatic and is operated by motion of the stainless steel arm connected to the float. As one would expect, the switch is adequately protected by a large and well molded stainless steel guard that ensures that there is never any dislocation of the precision apparatus when raising or lowering the sump pump to the sump.
The product comes with a stunning 5 years warranty on all parts (including motor and switch assembly), which makes it one of the best sump pumps in terms of the warranty coverage available. As expected, however, the warranty has to be availed by taking the product to the nearest service centre.
- Tough stainless steel housing
- Cast iron impeller and base for durability
- Highly responsive switch
- Extremely powerful motor with excellent pumping capacity
- Fully submersible power cord protects against short circuiting, etc.
- Well designed switch guard for protection against damage during movement
- Unbelievable 5 years warranty coverage
- Handle a bit too small
- Power cord is a bit short.
Customers praised the excellent design of the product, remarking on the molded design of the base and the overall portability of the product. Users also liked the excellent horsepower offered by the product, which they claimed was far superior to that offered by similarly priced brands. Finally, Wayne was praised for providing a great warranty and equally good customer service. At the same time however, some users noted that the handle was of insufficient size, which made raising the product a difficult task.
With the Wayne CDU980E Stainless Steel Sump Pump, Wayne has demonstrated its ability to excel in all departments as far as primary sump pumps are concerned. Indeed, it is nearly impossible to find a product that combines efficiency and compact design in such high proportions without raising the price to prohibitive levels. Indeed, if we carefully weigh out the pros listed above and compare them to the few cons, we realize that this sump pump is one of the best options for any home that requires a durable, efficient yet light and compact sump pump.
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Wayne CDU800 Submersible Cast Iron and Steel Sump Pump Review
Wayne’s sump pumps often appear similar to the layman, and this makes some users consider them to be similar in configuration. However, they are never quite identical in terms of the features and performance offered. This is not to say that the products of Wayne are anything but value for money, but rather that they offer value in different ways. We saw that the Wayne 58321-WYN3 Submersible Sump Pump combined excellent motor horsepower with a great all-round design. The Wayne CDU800 offers an equally wide range of features, but is placed in a lower horsepower bracket and boasts of a cast iron construction. This, along with the price difference, makes it foolish to consider the similar looking pumps as similar in specifications. Indeed, we need to study the CDU800 carefully so as to gauge its quality and efficiency as per the benchmarks of its price range.
- Product Dimensions: 9 x 9 x 12 inches
- Product Weight: 18.5 pounds
- Type: Submersible Sump Pump
- Discharge: 1 ½ inches NPT
- Motor: 1/2 HP, 100 volts
- Power: 3900 GPH at 5′ head
- Warranty: 3- year
Build Quality and Design
As we mentioned above, Wayne pumps generally have a standard design comprising of a rather thick motor housing, a well molded discharge and the switch assembly. Together, these ensure that the product is compact and does not possess any protruding parts that may hinder the flow of water or get damaged by solid particles in the sump. The Wayne CDU800 1/2 HP Cast Iron Submersible Sump Pump follows this tried and tested design, except that unlike many similarly priced sump pumps (of both Wayne and other companies), it makes use of cast iron instead of steel. As is well known, cast iron is regarded as more sturdy and capable of handling extreme water pressure during storms, etc. Furthermore, there is a layer of corrosion resistant coating, which ensures that the housing does not rust.
If that weren’t enough, the base of the pump is made of cast iron as well, thus avoiding the longevity problems associated with materials like plastic.
Major External Parts (Discharge, Power Cord and Handle)
The discharge of the Wayne CDU800 is made of high quality cast iron, which insures this vital part against damage due to impact from heavy pebbles ,etc. Further, it is so designed that it efficiently assists the motor in removing the maximum amount of water without getting clogged with debris. Finally, the fact that the discharge has a 1-1/2” NPT diameter ensures that most standard pipes of this diameter can function with this sump pump, thereby saving one the trouble of using valves, etc to reduce the pipe diameter.
The power cord is fully insulated and fully submersible, thereby allowing the user to install the sump pump without having to worry about electrical shocks, etc. Furthermore, the power cord is of decent length, which precludes the necessity of there being multiple modifications to the electrical wiring of the house before the pump can be used efficiently. Finally, Wayne has provided a stainless steel handle for the pump, which is fixed and cannot be bent as per convenience. This, and the fact that it is rather small for a person with large hands, makes the handle one of the rare shortcomings of this sump pump.
Motor and Sealing
The heart of any sump pump is its motor, and thankfully, the Wayne CDU800 comes with a powerful 1/2HP motor that is capable of working for long hours without suffering any decline in productivity. In fact, it can achieve a consistent output of 3900 gallons per hour at 5’ head. Further, it has a decent maximum head of 20’, and unlike a lot of sump pumps which achieve only weak outputs at their highest certified heads, this product pumps a decent 600 gallons per hour at its maximum head.
Complementing this excellent motor is the sealing. Wayne has used a superior ceramic seal which allows neither water to flow into the motor nor oil to flow out of it. Coupled with the superior quality well-oiled ball bearings, these make this device one of the best sump pumps in terms of motor and sealing quality.
Impeller and Switch Assembly
Wayne knows the importance of using an impeller that can run efficiently even when it is assaulted by pebbles and other solid particles that are swirling around with the water in the sump. Cast iron has proved to be the best solution in this situation, and hence, we find that the Wayne CDU800 has been provided with a high quality cast iron impeller. Even better, the impeller’s design allows it to move water at a rapid pace such that the discharge can efficiently transfer it into the outlet pipes even during the height of the rainy season, when flooding is a real possibility.
The switch assembly is composed of a thick but highly reliable PVC float connected via a steel arm to the switch. When the water rises, the float is pushed upwards, applying pressure on the arm and thereby triggering the switch. The switch itself is a bipolar one with a provision for auto-shutdown should there be great fluctuation of power supply and/or extreme heating of the motor. This ensures that the switch doubles up as a safety mechanism that ensures the security of both the sump pump and the wiring of the house.
Finally, the CDU800 is protected by a stainless steel switch guard which extends to a distance just sufficient for protecting the large float. Some users complained that the steel could on occasion be dented if the pump collided with the sides of the sump, but they added that despite this denting, the guard continued to serve its function of protecting the switch well.
- Compact and efficient design by Wayne
- Body made of cast iron for superior longevity
- Molded cast iron discharge for superior water removal
- Submersible power cord of sufficient length for easy installation
- Excellent 1/2HP motor with stunning 3900GPH at 5’ head
- Good maximum head ensures wide adaptability of the product
- Highly responsive bipolar switch
- Good warranty on all parts
- Handle small for people with large hands, cannot be bent
- Switch guard could have been made of cast iron
The CDU800 Submersible Sump Pump was universally praised for being small enough to fit in almost any sump, and being sturdy enough to survive even the peak rainy season water pressure. Further, users noted the ability of the motor to remove water even when the outlet gradient was steep and high. Finally, users were impressed by the ability of the switch to turn on and off at short intervals based on fractional changes in the water level. On the flip side, a minority of users complained of the handle being hard to grip, and in a few rare cases, the switch guard being dented due to a hard impact during installation
The Wayne CDU800 brings the best of Wayne’s expertise in building quality products that are both powerful and compact. Though this perhaps led them to sacrifice a larger handle for a smaller one, the ability of this sump pump to pump impressive levels of water even at an exceptional maximum head, the exceptional performance of the impeller and the efficiency of the discharge prove that Wayne left no stone unturned to ensure quality in the core parts of this pump. Indeed, if we consider these features alongside the 3 year warranty that is offered by Wayne, we realize that this product is a strong competitor for the position of the most reliable sump pump in the sub-$200 price bracket.
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Simple steps to clean a sump pump
As our tips and guides page suggests, the most common reasons for malfunction involved sumps and sump pumps which had not been cleaned for a long time. This is especially true for situations where there is a high amount of loose gravel and stones in the substratum of the basement, and these collect in the sump along with the water. Furthermore, as more and more gravel and debris collect in the sump, the depth of the sump is reduced, leading to the water rising faster. This leads to the sump pump being overworked. To avoid these issues, we have come up with a short list of simple steps to clean a sump pump.
Cleaning the sump
While we would like to concentrate on the sump pump, it should not be forgotten that the maximum debris collects at the bottom of the sump and not on or in the sump pump itself (except parts of the impeller). Hence, before one starts on the simple steps to clean a sump pump, it is vital to clean out the sump itself.
- Remove the sump cover and disconnect the power of the sump pump.
- Disconnect the PVC pipe from the discharge and carefully pull out the sump pump from the sump. Expect some amount of water to come out with the pump.
- Place the sump pump in a bucket or plastic box and keep it aside.
- Use a wet vacuum (not a dry or leaf vacuum) to drain any water that may be present in the sump. Note that while doing so, some small pieces of debris would also be pulled into the vacuum, so a sturdy wet vacuum is advisable.
- Once the wet vacuum has removed the water, shine a torch into the sump pump. You will see a number of small to medium-sized pieces of debris at the bottom.
- Put on a pair of sturdy workman’s gloves and use a scraper or small shovel to pull out the debris and put it in a disposable plastic bag or bin. Note that there may be small insects and plants in the sump as well, and one should not bring one’s face too close to the sump surface for this reason.
- There may be liquid or semi-liquid sludge at the bottom, this needs to be cleaned out using a plastic cup. Wear a face-mask to avoid the powerful and unpleasant odors that may arise.
- Let the sump walls dry out for some time. Once they are dry, scrape the sides of the sump with sandpaper or any abrasive material that can remove the debris and possible algal blooms.
- Spray mild disinfectant into the sump as an added precursor to simple steps to cleaning a sump pump.
Since you would need a dry sump to carry out the above steps, it is advisable to carry out the above steps during the dry season.
Cleaning the sump pump body
- Take the sump pump out of the bucket/box and let the sump pump dry in the sun for some time. This will reduce the odors and dry out the sludge sticking to the sides and the impeller.
- Take a piece of sandpaper and scrub the sides of the sump pump thoroughly. While the best sump pumps have smooth exteriors that can be cleaned easily, some of the older ones will have nooks and crannies that require the use of special scrapers to clean out.
- Take a little mineral oil (like car engine lubricators) and apply it to the outer surface of the sump pump, such that a nice layer is created. This will create an added layer of protection against corrosion.
Cleaning the discharge and impeller
The last series of simple steps to clean a sump pump involve cleaning the lower parts of the sump pump viz. the discharge and impeller.
- Using the same procedure outlined above, use a sandpaper to clean out the interior and exterior surfaces of the discharge tube.
- While learning how to install a sump pump, you may have come across a small air hole located near the discharge. Clean out this air hole with a pin, such that you can see the other side of the surface through this small hole.
- Apply some vegetable oil – not mineral oil, since the discharge is made of plastic and not metal – on the exterior and interior surfaces to ensure smooth functioning.
- Locate the impeller and ensure that the debris in and around it has dried to a sufficient extent.
- Using a leaf vacuum with blower function set at a low air speed, carefully blow away the loose dry debris, till only the threads and other tenacious debris are left.
- Take a small putty knife and scrape away at the vents carefully till you can see through most of the vents. This will also dislodge some threads/hairs.
- Finally, pull out as many of the threads as you can, using a tweezer or similar tool if necessary.
- Blow some canned air into the impeller blades to remove residual debris.
- Once you’ve covered the major part of the simple steps to clean a sump pump, you need to replace the sump pump in the now clean sump.
- Once the sump pump has been lowered to the floor of the sump, reattach the PVC pipe to the discharge and reconnect the sump pump to the electric supply.
- Pour a bucket of water into the sump and observe whether the functioning of the pump has improved. If the cleaning has been properly carried out, the water will be removed at a faster pace.
- Replace the sump cover.
The simple steps to clean a sump pump are not exactly the most time-saving, since the cleaning process involves multiple steps. However, these steps are similar regardless of which product you choose using our types of sump pump – which is best choice guide. Furthermore, they need to be carried out at gaps of not less than 6-8 months, with the thorough sump pump impeller cleaning being required only about once a year. Thus, while the process may seem long and somewhat complex, the low frequency of the clean-ups ensure that keeping the sump pump in top shape is not a difficult task.
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Tips for avoiding water damage with basement waterproofing paint
Although the choices of materials for waterproofing one’s basement are numerous, it doesn’t take a scientist to tell you that waterproofing paint is one of the easiest to handle, and when used carefully, cheapest of materials available. However, waterproofing paints come in many forms, ranging from oil or latex based paints to elastomers. Their viscosity, primer requirements, thinning needs and wall preparation procedures are vastly different and it is fallacious to believe that just by knowing the basic painting procedure one can achieve the perfect sealing, even when the overall water-retention capacity of the basement is kept to a minimum by a sump pump that has been installed properly. On the other hand, the products can be handled and used without much hassle if the tips for avoiding water damage with basement waterproofing paint can be followed.
Tips for Oil and Latex based paints
Dry out the surface thoroughly
Though this is one of the basic truths known to any painter, many people assume that since the paint is waterproofing by nature, it will be able to settle down on wet walls or those with mold/fungi on them. The truth is that waterproofing paint is capable of repelling water only when it is dry, and to dry out, it needs a dry surface with which to chemically bond.
If the surface is wet, a film of water exists between the surface and the paint and this causes the paint to remain wet because it cannot bond with the surface. As water builds up under the paint over time, the paint and primer are turned to a mushy mixture that is of no use whatsoever.
To dry out the surface and prepare it for the paint:
- Take a loose wire brush and brush away loose paint, mortar and flakes of old mold and while doing so, ensure that the surface is as flat as possible.
- Use a dehydrating agent to remove the water from the wall. Note that this part of the tips for avoiding water damage with basement waterproofing paint would be useful only for a couple of hours after the drying has been carried out as water is constantly moving through concrete.
- Use dehumidifiers to dry out the air present in the basement and one of the best sump pumps to ensure that the substratum of the basement is dry (so water cannot rise up from the floor) .
- Apply the primer and paint.
Cover any cracks
Cracks less than 1/8th of an inch in thickness can be covered using polyurethane filler foam. As with applying paint, ensure that the surface around the crack is dry. If needed, wear a gas mask to avoid contact with any fumes that may be associated with the foam. Once the foam has settled well, apply another layer if the contours of the crack are still visible. Once you’re satisfied, wait for about an hour before beginning to paint.
Oil is better than Latex
As mentioned in the introduction, there are two major types of waterproofing paint – oil and latex. While latex gives a smooth finish, it has a tendency to become stretched when heavy objects are hung on the walls. Further, it is not very easy to clean and if you use the basement to for working with table saws or plasma cutters, it can become grimy quite easily. Oil takes on grime too but it is easier to clean and when heavy objects are suspended, there is no flaking or stretching of the paint. Further, oil based paints are cheaper and the thinners/primers required are more akin to those used for ordinary wall paint.
Tips for Elastomeric Paints
Viscosity and Thinning
Elastomeric paints work somewhat better than oil or latex based paints and can be thinned with water, but are also somewhat costlier. If you choose elastomeric paints, you should keep in mind that the viscosity of elastomeric paints is far higher than ordinary paints. Further, they are meant to be applied in this viscous form rather than thinned to a fluid form.
In addition, one should note that oftentimes the change in viscosity is not readily apparent (or no change takes place) when thinner is added, but the requisite changes are taking place in the internal composition of the mixture. Hence, if no change is apparent, one should not keep on adding water.
Dry Form Thickness (DFT)
Dry form thickness is the thickness of the coat of paint on a dry surface when the coat itself has become completely dry. This thickness in case of elastomeric paints is in the order of 10-20 mils per coat, with most walls generally requiring two coats. Compare this with the 3-5 mils of a coat of oil based paint and it becomes obvious that elastomeric paints are far thicker. Indeed, they should form a rubbery layer through which the minute details of the wall beneath should not be visible. If the forms are still visible, it is likely that the coat is not thick enough and another coating can be undertaken.
Don’t Avoid Backbrushing and Edges
One of the tips for avoiding water damage with basement waterproofing paint that is often overlooked is the need for backbrushing of viscous paint to ensure uniform application. Without backbrushing, lumps of solids can remain and this creates an uneven surface that may protect against water invasion but will collect dirt more easily and cause maintenance headaches later on.
When painting, furthermore, one of the common suggestions of our tips and blog articles for sump pumps’ sump pits becomes valid – ensure that the edges are not ignored. Ignoring them will provide water narrow spaces through which to pour in and render the waterproofing largely inept.
While providing the above tips for avoiding water damage with basement waterproofing paint, we’ve purposefully avoided creating an article that would be similar to the buying guides for sump pumps. The reason for this is that unlike sump pumps, the best paint has to be chosen by the person on the spot, as these vary in price from region to region and are often shipped from the nearest factories. That said, the rules for applying such paints are more or less uniform, and if the ones we’ve listed above are followed, it is likely that one’s basement would be free from mold, dampness and of course, water leakage for posterity, provided of course that reinforcing coats are applied at regular intervals.
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